bryansk: home of partisans and their succession

As supposedly one of many relicts of communist times in Russia, there is an emergency help at every train station, which is run 24 hrs and available freely for everybody. Still having 15 min until the train leaves, we go there and experience very warm and deedful help. Not only do I get my finger precautionaryly splinted but also a straight shot of analgeticum in the behind. But now you better run and get the train!

Five hrs night train ride to the 350 km far Bryansk for € 15. As students, which we still are at least regarding our spirit, we booked "third class", which basically means 15 open cabins per cart each providing six bunk beds.

Ilyas mum picks us up at the train station at 5.30 am, and -15 °C, it is a warm welcome. She seems to be close to crying regarding the fact, that Ilya, Anna-Sofia and me had met in America and now are visiting her. During the three days in Bryansk we are served like zars. "Guten Morgen! Anna, Samuel, chai or kofi?" Combining all her skills in Russian, German and English language Ms. Osadchiy investigates our desires for drinks and food. It is not quite easy to make her understand the concept of vegeterianism, which has to be the weirdest thing in the world for any meat spoiled Russian, but at the second day, things are already clear.

In order to check my ... splinted finger, we visit the neighbourhood's doctor house. The surgery section is open 24 hrs and here again, I am helped well and unburocratically (We just dont put your case in the records). Ilya tells me afterwards how excited the doctor was to treat a foreigner (and German) and how he apologized for the low standard of his clinic (which is not so bad at all). I recieve the x-ray image and a diagnosis for further treatment back home. I am truely amazed by the Russian health system as far as I experienced it. Good shit, geiler Scheiss.

[In front of the neighborhood's medical care house in Bryansk.]

[Right after I had received my new cask.]

where there are more churches than sheep and immediate sins visitation

Susdl is part of the famous Golden Ring located 5 train hrs north east of Moscow. With approximately 11000 inhabitants, it is not quite the size of Moscow but surely can compete in terms of its churches. In which ever direction you may look, there are at least three orthodox churches in sight.

We meet up with two COUCHSURFERS, Ivan and Adriana to go there together. The train station is very nice and modern, as much as the train is not. Wooden benches, providing space for three people on each side. We are late, so there is no more seats for us. At first it is really warm, but after half an hour the furnace is turned off and restarted only irregularly for a short time. It is really cold.

The main square of Susdl is full of bouthes offering all kinds of warm socks, boots and hats. The Russians also know Grintwein, self made hot red wine with spices. Prices are like at a German Christmas market. We march through snow and over frozen rivers, visiting a couple of churches. I am not sure which sin I committed, but in any way I am punished by a twisted right ringfire when trying to climb a trail to a monarchy. It does not hurt much since my fingers are senseless from the cold.

moscow is the capital of russia

After Berlin and New York, Moscow makes a good continuation of new year's eve celebratins in huge cities. Even better of course renunified with part of the Atlanta gang. After a long night into 31st's morning getting up did not happen any early (7.00pm), so that we managed to get downtown Moscow for the change of the year 10 minutes early. It is impressive to doi a stroll around Moscows Kremlin as first thing in the new year. We dont miss the chance to visit the highly renowned hotel Ritz Carlton just around the corner. Ilya gets some souvenirs, obvouisly not exactly from the hotel's souvenir shop.

Generally it is cold, barely over -15 °C and sometimes even windy. Streets are snow covered, so are sidewalks, ince even in Moscow snow fall in January seems unexpected. We take a cap to a COUCHSURFING party. "Wear something you normally never wear" is the theme, so I become turtle man. Some Russians are excited. Anna-Sofia becomes twister queen (for sure thanks to the intensive training in summer back in Atlanta. However, the party spirit is not really getting us. On the way home we give basic first aid to an alcohol intoxinated woman laying besides the street using the famous recovery position. After a few minutes she already stands again slightly waveringly.

The first couple of days of our 10 days stay we don't make it out of the house before sunset, which is around 4.00 pm. Since it is holiday periode in Russia (Jan. 1st to 10th are national holidays, potentially the longest in the world) Moscow people do it the same way recovering from the long and streneous work year. Moscow is probably anyways most beautiful at night, which we can see at a great view point close to the university of Moscow. Although I wear pantihose, trousers and a windbreaking top layer plus woulen socks and five layer on the upper body, I am freaking cold. The way to dress in such conditions is fur mantle and hat, combined with high heeled boots for the women, thats how the Russians do it. It looks fancy and is warm.

Fortunately, there is a lonely branch of an awesome Russian fast food chain at the scenic terasse. ... : Whole baked potatoes with cheese and butter and all kinds of toppings. Half a liter of beer is little more than a Euro. We heat up our feet at a small electric radiator. Next to it, there is a thick ice layer on the inside of the wall. Souvenir seller wrap up their tables outside.